In warmer temperatures, leaf and root growth slow down. Plants rest during heat and drought as roots can be damaged when soil temperatures are above 85°F.
During the fall, shoots start to grow again, and nutrients begin the process of being stored for the winter. Optimal shoot growth occurs in air temperatures of 55-75°F.
SILC Lawn Tips!
Watering: April-October
1" of water weekly, It is best to water first thing in the morning.
Fertilizing: Spring & Fall
Fertilizers that made for the specific season to provide different nutrients.
Mowing: March-November
Any lawnmower with sharp blades that are set to no shorter than 3".
Sodding: April-October
Local, fresh sod is best. Don't use if cut more than 1 week prior.
Aerating & Dethatching: Spring or Fall
Dethatch prior to aerating.
Seeding: Spring or Fall
Bluegrass and Fescue are common in Southern Idaho. Seed after aeration and dethatching.
Pest Control: Spring
Weevils {Bill Bugs} and sod web-worms can be controlled by spot-treating problem areas with any Pyrthin based product.
Crabgrass Control: Spring
Typically a granular that is mixed in with spring fertilizer. "Weed & Feed"
Broadleaf Control: Fall
Any herbicide listed for lawn use, 2,4D/Dicamba are common.
As we approach the hottest and driest time of the year here in Southern Idaho, proper irrigation of our newly planted material is crucial. The hard part is knowing how often and how much to water. I wrote this post to help give you the tools necessary to carry your trees through this summer's heat and beyond.
The first thing to understand is that trees and shrubs are very different from turf grass. Grass has shallow roots and likes a little water, frequently. Trees, have deeper root systems and like a lot of water infrequently. Sprinkler systems will never provide sufficient water to trees!
After planting a tree, the frequency at which you water is important. Here is a good guide according to the University of Minnesota.**
**The soil and climate varies greatly in Idaho compared to Minnesota. This is a great starting point. Your tree may need more frequent watering depending on elevation and soil structure.
Larger trees will need more water at these intervals than smaller trees. One of the benefits to planting smaller trees is less need for water and a shorter establishment time. Here is a guide to help you know roughly how much water your tree will need at the needed intervals according to the tree's caliper (diameter of the trunk 6-12 inches above the soil).**
**Soil structure varies greatly across Idaho. Your soil may hold more or less water than this. We strongly suggest building a "bowl" or watering basin around the tree to collect water. How fast/slow the water drains will inform you of how much or little water you will need.
As stated earlier, larger trees will take longer to establish. According to the University of Minnesota, the amount of time a tree takes to establish is as follows:
A newly planted tree with a proper sized mulch zone and watering basin. Photo courtesy University of Minnesota Extension.
If you have any questions feel free to comment below on contact us!
Source:
Winter burn is common in evergreen plants during unseasonably warm and snow-less winters. When temperatures say warm enough, evergreens will continue to respire (take up water). Coincidentally, many of our irrigation systems are off during this time of year. This leads to plants sustaining drought-like damage to their tissues.
Arborvitaes, Alberta Spruces, and Boxwoods are often the most affected. To prevent winter burn: